Now that you have got it home, here is how to put it together
Big Green Egg
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Saturday, December 31, 2011
Monday, December 19, 2011
What's the difference between USDA Prime and USDA Choice?
Basically, more fat marbling throughout the meat. As you can tell from the following photos, Prime Grade (on the right) has much more fat marbling throughout the meat than the Choice Grade (on the left).


USDA PRIME, USDA CHOICE & OTHER GRADES OF BEEF
All beef is not created equal. The
quality depends on not only the stock but the animal’s environment, type of
feed, slaughter technique, aging, butchering, packaging and other factors, a key
factor of which is marbling. The eight USDA
grades are Prime, Choice, Select, Standard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter and
Canner. USDA Prime is generally only available to restaurants and specialty
butcher shops. The best quality sold at supermarkets is generally USDA Choice,
although many markets sell only Select. If the grade is not indicated, ask. Only
2% to 3% of all beef produced is graded USDA Prime. About 58% of all beef
produced is graded USDA Choice. The grading is based on three factors: the
proportion of meat to bone (conformation), the proportion of fat to lean
(finish) and overall quality. Beef grade is largely determined by the nature of
the steer, although the industry tries, through breeding and feeding practices,
to raise cattle that will earn a Choice grade.
We have always sold Choice Rib Roast here at Wassi's Meat Market. There generally is no demand for "PRIME" in our area. People just won't pay the price.We have recently seen an interest in "PRIME "cuts in our shop and for the first time this year we are offering "PRIME" Rib Roast. We will still offer Choice as well.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
How To Smoke a Turkey
If you think Thanksgiving is the only time of year to test your skills at smoking a turkey, think again. This slow-cooking method infuses the meat with a savory and smoky flavor that's as good during the warm spring and summer months as it is during the cool holiday season. Like roasting, smoking uses low, indirect heat. But it's more than just heating--this method actually adds a rich flavor to the meat, which can be influenced by your choice of wood chips, herbs and other flavorings you put directly on the heat source in your smoker. And since the process take several hours, you can make a day out of smoking your turkey. So, break out the Frisbee, lounge in the hammock and soak up the sun and fresh air, while the smoker does all the work.
Not feeling up to the onslaught of leftovers from a whole turkey? A turkey breast is the perfect option for a smaller crowd. This recipe for herb-smoked turkey breast uses tart Granny Smith apples, onions and fresh herbs to enhance the flavors of the meat.
What You'll Need
- 1 bone-in fresh turkey breast, about 7-1/2 pounds
- 1 Granny Smith apple, cut up
- 2 medium-size onions, cut up
- 8 sprigs fresh thyme
- 4 small sprigs fresh rosemary
- 6 sage leaves, torn
- 2 teaspoons seasoning salt (such as Adobo)
- 1 teaspoon paprika
Step By Step
1
Rinse breast and pat dry. Loosen skin over both sides of turkey breast. Soak 2 to 3 cups wood chips in hot tap water.
2
Cover water pan completely with aluminum foil. Add apple, onion, 4 sprigs of the thyme, 2 sprigs of the rosemary and 3 of the sage leaves.
3
In a small bowl, combine Adobo and paprika. Place a generous amount between the skin and breast meat and remainder on the outside of skin. Tuck remaining herb sprigs under skin.
4
Prepare smoker: Fire up about 10 pounds charcoal until gray and ashy. Place water pan in body of smoker and place body on top of grill base. Fill water pan with 6 to 8 cups hot tap water, and gently replace grill racks. Shake excess water off chips; add to charcoal through side door.
5
Place turkey breast on top grill rack, cover and smoke at 225 degrees F to 250 degrees F for 3-1/2 hours or until breast meat registers 160 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer. Let stand, covered with foil, for 20 to 30 minutes before slicing and serving.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
How to grill the perfect steak
CHILL OUT Please remove thawed meat from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking.
READY, SET, SEAR! Gas or charcoal grill: Sear each side 1 minute over high heat then move to indirect heat or reduce heat to medium. Continue cooking to the times below.
GRILLING TIMES Organized by thickness and temperature makes grilling easy.
GIVE IT A REST Always let steaks rest 5 minutes before slicing.
FILETS MIGNON & CENTER-CUT RIBEYES
| Thickness | Rare 120° to 130° F | Medium Rare 130° to 140° F | Medium 140° to 150° F |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1.5" | 5 minutes EACH SIDE | 5.5 minutes EACH SIDE | 6 minutes EACH SIDE |
| 1.75" | 6 minutes EACH SIDE | 6.5 minutes EACH SIDE | 7 minutes EACH SIDE |
| 2" | 7 minutes EACH SIDE | 7.5 minutes EACH SIDE | 8.5 minutes EACH SIDE |
SIRLOIN STRIP STEAKS, RIBEYE STEAKS & PORTERHOUSE STEAKS **
| Thickness | Rare 120° to 130° F | Medium Rare 130° to 140° F | Medium 140° to 150° F |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1" | 7 minutes EACH SIDE | 8 minutes EACH SIDE | 11 minutes EACH SIDE |
| 1.5" | 9 minutes EACH SIDE | 10 minutes EACH SIDE | 12 minutes EACH SIDE |
| 1.75" | 10 minutes EACH SIDE | 12 minutes EACH SIDE | 13 minutes EACH SIDE |
| 2" | 11 minutes EACH SIDE | 13 minutes EACH SIDE | 14 minutes EACH SIDE |
Monday, October 10, 2011
The Best Way to Cook Corn on the Cob for a Crowd? It's Cooler Corn

As an obsessive food nerd, you'd expect that I would have at least heard of it, but over the weekend I was blindsided by the simple genius of this method for cooking loads of corn on the cob (which is still in season, no matter that summer already seems like a sad memory) perfectly.
I was hepped to it while visiting my family . Short story: We like corn on the cob. And with eight adults at the table, that means a couple of dozen ears. We would have used the lobster pot to cook them all, but the lobster pot was busy steaming lobster.Then my sister, says "let's do cooler corn!" Before I can ask "what the hell is cooler corn?" a Coleman cooler appears from the garage, is wiped clean, then filled with the shucked ears. Next, two kettles-full of boiling water are poured over the corn and the top closed.
Then nothing.
When we sat down to dinner 30 minutes later and opened it, the corn was perfectly cooked. My mind was blown. And I'm told that the corn will remain at the perfect level of doneness for a couple of hours.
Turns out, Cooler Corn is pretty well known among the outdoorsy set (I found a handful of mentions on various camping websites). But for those of us who avoid tents as much as possible, it's perfect for large barbecues and way less of mess than grilling. In fact, I may even buy another cooler just so I'm ready for next summer. Now that I'm in the know
Monday, September 26, 2011
Frequently Asked Questions on THE BIG GREEN EGG
We know from experience that there are some common questions that Big Green Egg owners often ask. We've covered those here to conveniently and quickly provide you with an answer. We know that some EGG® owners will have specific questions that are not covered here and the best solution for getting a response to an individual query is to contact your nearest Big Green Egg dealer. This section also presents the BGE Warranty details for your review.
Frequently Asked Questions

How do I adjust the EGG to reach a given temperature and then maintain it?
One important attribute of the Big Green Egg is its ability to set and accurately maintain a desired temperature. The EGG has a two damper system that facilitates easy heat control. By adjusting both the top and bottom dampers, the heat inside the EGG can attain and hold temperatures ranging from under 200°F to over 750°F This range should accommodate any cooking needs — from low-temperature smoking to high-heat searing. The thermometer installed on the ceramic lid will provide accurate internal readings without opening the lid.
A dual function metal top is included with each EGG. The daisy wheel design contains openings that can be adjusted to allow more or less air to "fine tune" the desired cooking temperature. Opening the entire sliding metal top will achieve high temperatures more quickly.
Already installed on the base of each EGG is a stainless steel draft door, which now has a mesh panel for extra safety. (If you have an older EGG without the mesh, you have the option of purchasing a replacement draft door with the mesh.) It is best to keep the mesh panel fully closed to prevent hot ash or coals from popping out. As with the dual function metal top, you can adjust the draft door opening slightly to "fine tune" the cooking temperature or open the solid door fully to reach higher temperatures faster.
I still cannot get the temperature of my Big Green Egg above 350°F. What could I be doing wrong?
There are two common reasons why the EGG will not reach higher temperatures.
The first is lack of airflow. Make sure that all of the air holes are free of obstructions, including those in the fire grate, the fire box, and the space behind and around the firebox. It is also necessary for the horseshoe shaped opening in the firebox to be aligned with the lower draft door in order to obtain proper air flow. Increasing the amount of air will ensure the EGG reaches higher temperatures.
The second reason you may have trouble attaining higher temperatures is that the lump charcoal is wet or damp. If charcoal is wet, or was wet and has not completely dried, it will be very difficult to reach higher cooking temperatures. Removing the wet charcoal and replacing it with fresh, dry lump coal will remedy this problem.
Am I doing something wrong if I open my EGG and flames come out?
If you've been cooking at temperatures above 300°F, be very careful when opening the lid. First raise the lid an inch or two and pause to "burp" it before raising the lid completely. This will allow the sudden rush of oxygen to burn safely inside the EGG and not as a flashback which could startle you and possibly cause injury.
There is a gap between the dome and base of my EGG and smoke is leaking out. How can I correct this?
Fortunately, a small gap between the base and the dome can be easily fixed. Simply loosen the upper band just enough to move the lid; then press the lid down tightly against the base and retighten the bolt. This should eliminate the gap and resolve smoke leakage.
If this technique does not remedy the problem, there is another option. Sometimes through normal use the two nuts holding the spring to the lower edge of the band can loosen. If these nuts are no longer in a parallel line, tighten them until they are parallel again.
What are the procedures for replacing a worn gasket?
Should the gasket eventually show signs of excessive wear, it can be easily replaced following these simple steps:
How do I adjust the EGG to reach a given temperature and then maintain it?
One important attribute of the Big Green Egg is its ability to set and accurately maintain a desired temperature. The EGG has a two damper system that facilitates easy heat control. By adjusting both the top and bottom dampers, the heat inside the EGG can attain and hold temperatures ranging from under 200°F to over 750°F This range should accommodate any cooking needs — from low-temperature smoking to high-heat searing. The thermometer installed on the ceramic lid will provide accurate internal readings without opening the lid.
A dual function metal top is included with each EGG. The daisy wheel design contains openings that can be adjusted to allow more or less air to "fine tune" the desired cooking temperature. Opening the entire sliding metal top will achieve high temperatures more quickly.
Already installed on the base of each EGG is a stainless steel draft door, which now has a mesh panel for extra safety. (If you have an older EGG without the mesh, you have the option of purchasing a replacement draft door with the mesh.) It is best to keep the mesh panel fully closed to prevent hot ash or coals from popping out. As with the dual function metal top, you can adjust the draft door opening slightly to "fine tune" the cooking temperature or open the solid door fully to reach higher temperatures faster.
I still cannot get the temperature of my Big Green Egg above 350°F. What could I be doing wrong?
There are two common reasons why the EGG will not reach higher temperatures.
The first is lack of airflow. Make sure that all of the air holes are free of obstructions, including those in the fire grate, the fire box, and the space behind and around the firebox. It is also necessary for the horseshoe shaped opening in the firebox to be aligned with the lower draft door in order to obtain proper air flow. Increasing the amount of air will ensure the EGG reaches higher temperatures.
The second reason you may have trouble attaining higher temperatures is that the lump charcoal is wet or damp. If charcoal is wet, or was wet and has not completely dried, it will be very difficult to reach higher cooking temperatures. Removing the wet charcoal and replacing it with fresh, dry lump coal will remedy this problem.
Am I doing something wrong if I open my EGG and flames come out?
If you've been cooking at temperatures above 300°F, be very careful when opening the lid. First raise the lid an inch or two and pause to "burp" it before raising the lid completely. This will allow the sudden rush of oxygen to burn safely inside the EGG and not as a flashback which could startle you and possibly cause injury.
There is a gap between the dome and base of my EGG and smoke is leaking out. How can I correct this?
Fortunately, a small gap between the base and the dome can be easily fixed. Simply loosen the upper band just enough to move the lid; then press the lid down tightly against the base and retighten the bolt. This should eliminate the gap and resolve smoke leakage.
If this technique does not remedy the problem, there is another option. Sometimes through normal use the two nuts holding the spring to the lower edge of the band can loosen. If these nuts are no longer in a parallel line, tighten them until they are parallel again.
What are the procedures for replacing a worn gasket?
Should the gasket eventually show signs of excessive wear, it can be easily replaced following these simple steps:
- The EGG should be completely cool before attempting to work on the gasket.
- Remove the old gasket with a flat-edged scraper or box cutter.
- Clean the rim of the base and lid with acetone (preferred) or rubbing alcohol and let dry for at least 30 minutes. The surface must be totally clean for the new gasket to adhere.
- The new gasket is self-adhesive but you can use a spray adhesive (Super 77 by 3M) to ensure a good seal. If using the spray adhesive, spray a small amount around the rim of the base and lid. Allow this to set for about 2 minutes to become tacky.
- Remove the backing from the gasket and press firmly down onto the rim. Bend the gasket around the rim as you press down. Do not stretch the gasket; there is ample material for the top and bottom rim of the Big Green Egg.
- Allow the adhesive to cure for 24 hours with the lid closed before using the EGG.
- If the gasket should loosen, glue it back on with Elmer's glue or another household adhesive.
One of the EGG's ceramic pieces has a crack. What should I do?
The fire ring and fire box often develop superficial fissures or small cracks. This is due to normal aging of ceramics and will not affect the cooking results or durability of your EGG. Should the ceramic ever break apart, it can usually still be used for cooking until a repair can be made. Any of our ceramic parts can be easily repaired with the use of a heat resistant epoxy. Look for a high temperature, non-toxic epoxy, available at most home center or hardware stores. Follow the instructions that come with the product. The repaired part should be ready within a few hours.
Mold has grown in my EGG. How can I remove it safely?
Mold is naturally in the air around us virtually all the time. When it settles in a warm, moist environment, such as the interior of the EGG, it can readily grow and spread. When this occurs you will actually see the mold. To eliminate it, just light the EGG and bring the temperature up to 450°F and allow the EGG to "cook" for about 30 minutes. Then close the vents to put out the fire; after it cools down use a wire brush to remove any leftover mold residue. Do not use any chemicals to treat the mold! The ceramics can absorb the chemicals and emit dangerous fumes when the EGG is in use thereafter.
What can I do to keep my wood table free from grease and food stains?
Some EGG owners elect to purchase a Big Green Egg wood table instead of a nest. Available in several sizes, these tables are made of Cypress and they are very light in color in their natural state. Cypress is very rot resistant and will weather naturally to a light grey color. To retain the original color, use a clear protective deck coating on the entire surface of the table. If another darker color is desired instead, stain the wood with any outdoor wood stain. Applying a protective finish to the table will prevent or diminish grease and food stains; the protective finish will keep the table attractive for many years, even with frequent use of the EGG.
The fire ring and fire box often develop superficial fissures or small cracks. This is due to normal aging of ceramics and will not affect the cooking results or durability of your EGG. Should the ceramic ever break apart, it can usually still be used for cooking until a repair can be made. Any of our ceramic parts can be easily repaired with the use of a heat resistant epoxy. Look for a high temperature, non-toxic epoxy, available at most home center or hardware stores. Follow the instructions that come with the product. The repaired part should be ready within a few hours.
Mold has grown in my EGG. How can I remove it safely?
Mold is naturally in the air around us virtually all the time. When it settles in a warm, moist environment, such as the interior of the EGG, it can readily grow and spread. When this occurs you will actually see the mold. To eliminate it, just light the EGG and bring the temperature up to 450°F and allow the EGG to "cook" for about 30 minutes. Then close the vents to put out the fire; after it cools down use a wire brush to remove any leftover mold residue. Do not use any chemicals to treat the mold! The ceramics can absorb the chemicals and emit dangerous fumes when the EGG is in use thereafter.
What can I do to keep my wood table free from grease and food stains?
Some EGG owners elect to purchase a Big Green Egg wood table instead of a nest. Available in several sizes, these tables are made of Cypress and they are very light in color in their natural state. Cypress is very rot resistant and will weather naturally to a light grey color. To retain the original color, use a clear protective deck coating on the entire surface of the table. If another darker color is desired instead, stain the wood with any outdoor wood stain. Applying a protective finish to the table will prevent or diminish grease and food stains; the protective finish will keep the table attractive for many years, even with frequent use of the EGG.
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